Dartmoor is receiving plenty of attention this week thanks to War Horse, Michael Morpurgo’s book which became a play and is now a major new Spielberg film. In light of this, lifestyle editor Marcus Waring dusted off his jodhpurs and headed out in search of the best the moor can offer.
If you would like further information or to make a booking for any of the below, please call your lifestyle manager.
Stay
The most luxurious place to stay in the county, mock Tudor Gidleigh Park hotel near Chagford is home to Michael Caines’ two-Michelin-starred cooking. The grounds are attractive and great walks lie close by, which is convenient as the superb modern European menu means exercise is essential. The loft suites are highly atmospheric.
The Dartmoor Inn in Lydford is an upmarket roadside establishment with good contemporary British cooking. There are three stylish rooms upstairs with French and English painted furniture (choose Toile with its beautiful bed). Walk to nearby Widgery Tor before enjoying chocolate pots, apple compotes and free-range scrambled eggs and bacon for breakfast.
Eat
At 22 Mill Street in Chagford, dishes cleverly play around with textures and flavours and the presentation is flawless. Modern art lines the walls and the feeling is one of stylish simplicity and impressive food that does the talking. There are two bedrooms upstairs if the mists roll in.
Nick Coiley, of The Carved Angel in Dartmouth fame, set up Agaric restaurant in Ashburton and it’s been doing very well ever since, along with its sleek B&B rooms. The homely dining room, with stone floors and square wooden tables, serves excellent food. Nick combines citrus and sweet flavours in the warm salad of rabbit confit and the herb-crusted best end of Devon lamb is exceptional.
Drink
The Ring of Bells Inn is located in the small village of North Bovey. Inside, rooms are heated by real fires, and well-cooked dishes such as braised shank of lamb are accompanied by good wines and Otter and St Austell Tribute on tap. There are five bedrooms upstairs via a granite spiral staircase.
If you want a civilised drink with downtempo music, No. 14 in Ashburton is a wine bar with an interesting list, including award-scooping whites from Sharpham in Totnes. There is also gourmet seafood bought from The Fish Deli around the corner. Bag the sofa at the front and lose yourself in conversation or the papers.
Explore
If it’s raining, Castle Drogo, a Lutyens-designed fortress built by grocery magnate Julius Drewe between 1910 and 1930, is fascinating. While the elements lash the lead-lined windows, the solid granite walls of what historians call the last castle built in England keep visitors dry. On Tuesdays, staff close the curtains and switch on the lights to do conservation work, which visitors can try their hand at.
For shopping, head to the pleasant market town of Tavistock. Close to the 900-year old Pannier Market (essentially full of bric-a-brac), there are intricate soaps at Odds & Suds. Next door, Country Cheeses stocks delicious locally made products – the Blue Hills cow’s and goat’s cheese is potent but creamy. End up at Creber’s on Brook Street, a nostalgic deli and grocer’s with quality victuals.
Exercise
Inspired by War Horse, head out on to the open moor for a canter with Shilstone Rocks stables, based in Widecombe-in-the-Moor. They take riders of all levels on several scenic routes. The way up to Buckland Beacon passes wooden anti-glider posts still standing from the Second World War when the British learnt of a German plan to land here and attack Plymouth. At the beacon, along with soaring views, are the Ten Commandments, carved into two stones.
For a hearty four-hour hike, park at Postbridge and walk south through pine woods and out to dramatic Bellever Tor, supposedly inspiring the one that Sherlock Holmes stands on in The Hound of the Baskervilles. Drop down into the thick pine woods below it and head south and uphill to Laughter Tor, descend to the standing stone and on to the track that heads northeast into the woods. At the end lies Bellever and a scenic stretch of rock-strewn river and a granite clapper bridge. Pick up the path north back to Postbridge.
