No longer solely the remit of fluorescent-lit, fast food joints, London has become fixated with the humble burger, with everywhere from fine dining restaurants to pop-up stalls offering their own gourmet variation. Read on to find out our recommendations in the capital.
Bar Boulud
Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, 66 Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7LA
This sophisticated bistro-style restaurant – with vintage oak floors and burgundy red leather banquettes – is the creation of Lyon-born, Michelin-starred chef Daniel Boulud. While the charcuterie and sausages – all made in-house – are worth a mention, it is the burgers which steal the limelight. There are three options available – the classic Yankee burger, the Frenchie (confit pork belly, Dijon mustard, morbier cheese, rocket and a tomato and onion compote) and the Piggie (barbecue pulled pork, green chilli mayonnaise and red cabbage coleslaw – pictured), each served in a butter-rich brioche bun. Ask the sommelier to recommend a wine to accompany your meal. The Batasiolo Barolo Riserva 1989 – a recent addition to the restaurant’s cellar – is an excellent match and is available by the glass.
Burger & Lobster
29 Clarges Street, London W1J 7EF
Located off one of Mayfair’s more nondescript streets, diners get a chance to glance at the menu, scrawled on a blackboard, for the first and last time. Which simply states: ‘Burger or lobster or lobster roll. All with chips and salad. £20.’ At this price, many choose the smoky-flavoured lobster, but the 10oz burger shouldn’t be overlooked. Cooked medium rare, the coarsely ground meat (a combination of grass-fed Irish and corn-fed Nebraskan beef) is well seasoned, with its natural flavour allowed to shine. There are no airs and graces here, as food arrives on a tray with a bucket of chips and a pile of salad leaves and pickles. At lunch, perch at the high tables, but for dinner the red leather banquettes are much more suited to a relaxed meal with cocktails.
Honest Burgers
Unit 12, Brixton Village Market, Coldharbour Lane, London SW9 8PR
Brixton Village is fast becoming one of London’s most popular culinary destinations, helped along by this understated restaurant. With a small number of covers, you’ll struggle to get a table straight away but, as it offers the best burger south of the river, it is definitely worth the wait. Their ethos is based on simple food and British produce; the aged beef is supplied by the Yorkshire-based Ginger Pig and the menu contains just four burgers, including an ever-changing seasonal special. For the full experience, try the trademark Honest Burger – topped with red onion relish, smoked bacon, mature cheddar, gherkins and lettuce. All come with a side portion of hand-cut, triple-cooked chips, infused with fresh rosemary.
Meat Liquor
74 Welbeck Street, London W1G 0BA
This new ‘no reservations’, US-style diner located just north of Oxford Street is dark, quite noisy and immensely popular. The walls and domed ceiling are adorned with street art, and loud but muffled music plays to a predominantly thirtysomething clientele. The signature Dead Hippie (with two beef patties) and the bacon cheeseburger are both proper ‘dirty burgers’ – slightly messy but certainly good. Side dishes include ‘for sharing’ chilli cheese fries, huge onion rings and deep fried pickles with a blue cheese dip. The bar stocks several rare whiskies and beers, including Meantime London Lager, and the friendly bartenders know their stuff. To avoid the queues, visit from 3.30-5.30pm, when they offer pie, bottomless coffee and reliable wi-fi. Closed Sundays and Mondays.
Mildreds
45 Lexington Street, London W1F 9AN
At this cosy and busy vegetarian restaurant in Soho, you might expect dishes such as the organic energising detox salad, but not hearty burgers and fries. The chef makes a daily special with whatever fresh vegetables, herbs and spices he chooses, so you’ll never eat the same recipe twice. With a soya protein base and a crunchy outside, it’s great for vegetarians fed up with sloppy, disintegrating patties or a Portobello mushroom in a bun. Beetroot and Mexican-style burgers are among diners’ favourites, and all varieties are vegan, unless you add cheese. Another popular upgrade is sweet potato fries – wedges with crispy skin and sea salt. The accompanying basil mayonnaise – a secret vegan recipe – is absolutely delicious.
